13 months in Beijing
Dear Friend,
I know when I have lived in Beijing long enough. I got into a taxi today, and after chatting for quite a while, the driver, a amiable 30-something turned around and said,
“你不是本地人吧.” (You are not a local, are you?”)
He later said I looked like a Beijinger, sounded like one, but felt later that my vibe was just a tad strange.
13 months in Beijing does make you more local, and I look back at the last year with much nostalgia. I remembered when I first shifted to Beijing, everyone including my wifey and I felt we were taking a big risk. We had little concrete reason to be here, as there was no job offers, few friends and the food oily. I remembered some of my friends snickered when I told them I would just shift my customer base to China, and I will find a way to ‘survive’.
How quickly that has changed. One of the biggest changes I noticed within us is how much more we have come to appreciate China as a whole. I last counted traveling to at least 20 different cities in China for either holidays or work, and I have already been to most corners around the country. I can now differentiate the differences in ascents between the northerners and southerners, cultural differences between people in the big cities and the smaller provinces, how Sichuan food really taste different in Sichuan itself and the challenges and mindset behind the China that is trying to project itself to the rest of the world. I came to China at the beginning only knowing the skylines of Beijing and Shanghai, and now I can tell if that rowdy Chinese group sound like they were from Zhenzhou or Chengdu.
There are still things I can never really get used to in Beijing - heavy secondhand smoke every corner you go, heavy traffic conditions within the Beijing city and that frequent gurgling of spit within the taxi driver as he opens the door in moving traffic to spit that green goo possibly onto an unsuspecting incoming cyclist. However, I must say there is now less of a cultural shock opposed to a grudging acceptance of their styles and habits.
Nowadays, when I do assignments out of the country and encounter Chinese nationals, I feel a certain sense of affinity as I understood their conditions back home and their struggles in a new country. I remembered a few of my assignments consisted of just sitting with them while they relate their challenges with a few smokes between them. My very own great grandfather probably didn’t feel very welcome when he first touched down in Malaysia a hundred years ago, then a tin mining town and an area opposed to new Chinese immigrants.
Now, I can even see why despite having some of the most varied and imaginative cuisine in Singapore and Malaysia (coconut milk with curry and rice noodles anyone?) that befuddles and impresses some of the most traveled world famous chefs, the Chinese national student that comes to Singapore to study would still want their lunch and dinner to consist of hand pulled noodles or meat dumplings. When I was still a student in Singapore, I never truly understand their palate, even to the point of laughing at their lack of trial and error about their diets until I realised this was one of their few moments in a day where they travel back to the comforts of their heritage and feel that they were right at home for that short half an hour. After that, it is back to the non-descript laboratory or homogenous construction site.
I look back in time, and I feel that I made the right choice of jumping into an unknown situation again. Same for climbing that big mountain, same for choosing to be a photographer, same for jumping into New York with crutches and all and back all over again.
Stefen Chow
29th October 2009
Beijing West Train Station
(enroute to Shijiazhuang for an assignment for Bloomberg news)
Update: It is 1st October today, so Happy National Holiday for China! I love you! Back in Beijing now, and just did an interesting assignment on wealth disparity in Shijiazhuang.







